8A comments

The following comments are taken off of Jaeger's 8A scorecard. Enjoy.

"OTntrdsnCypparCsAtoN"

"? sds to 'buddy swolesack': start on two decent holds in the cave's seam sitting... not the highest seam holds, not the lowest... after touching em all, these two seemed like the most obvious start for the sit rather than getting retarded dab positioning to pull from the lower set. excavated much moss and dirt from a key hold in the upper seam that had clearly never been touched with brush or hand before... seemed like any ascent prior to mine would have used some ill/hard pulling in the absence of this hold, but let me know if you did do it first. v? better temps and less than 1.5 hours of constant efforts w/ bad beta may make it easier? note: in wetter months, this sds becomes a shallow swamp."

"it's been churning in my mind for six years. great rock climb; very satisfied. sooo close to sharma's lunge... seeping wounds = sunday shower of DOOM"

"st:2fing+mono/t.o.scaryslab v?

"travIN>UtrnOUT>HoboR"

"trav.IN>Utrn>full L."

"COLDthintall-i cried"

"PREEMPTIVE STRIKE: KISS MY ASS JEMERSON! contrived start of 'official' line is shortie killer. started on the obvious pinch jug w/ RH and LH lower. extremely fun and worthy from pinch start w/o any height dependent moves that i believe is a much more obvious beginning of this problem and a start that many folks can enjoy without the retardation of the "official" start. in project righteous indignation, cheating produces no guilt."

"about 60 yards diagonally right of the parking for what i think was the finch lake trail. might be v7ish or 6ish.. my radar is off. pit stop while playing sightseeing guide for mom. was dry on the overhung face despite 2in of snow... wet jugs to top out. jug sds > huge high foot to stab to dual slot pockets [crux] then diagonally up great incuts. spectacular line, but must be a bit weary of some holds. r.fields line."

"the real start from a low crimp and higher pinch crimp on left facing diagonal rail. start w/ heel hook above right hand and cross over to higher start hold. very unique move, but many will hate, hence the other start. i enjoyed it. YES I EXPLODOMACATED the start hold of SALAD TOSS and robbed myself of the send. phil later did all the crux moves into equitos from the heinous left-over sloper start, but had to drop off equitos due to rain soak above, so, it still goes."

"high 50s in the cave despite 20 even at parking lot! climb starting at left side of berthoud cave, ~6ft back under roof on horizontal jug, use the kneebar to come out of the first roof section, huge hantavirus huecos are off as per samet, climb out center of bathtub w/ big lockoff from good undercling and dynamic fall into another undercling before going up. a reminder: stars given for movement, irrespective of diminutive stature or heinous choss, which are both the case here."

"epic battle for me on wall of dispair. tj, hayden, and chuck pissed all over it, but i could not get to a key gaston and had to deadpoint off of heinous shit. felt as or more difficult than formula 50 to me. maybe i'll call mine an eliminate varition and take 15 points? felt good to finally snag the deadpoint though... totally invested in the move and loving climbing, epitomized."

"about the same difficulty as before and similar moves... techy balance was replaced with thug style... still fun. thanks for the great spots on my dynamic beta for the to [ander, hayden, jt, rich] hayden did a spooky high heel, low hand lockoff that i wanted to do but couldn't articulate the ankle in the brace to do. not sure which would be easier or less scary beta..."

"sds arete L of old guard. very interesting and clutch explosion to lip jug from bunchyballofdoom position. chuckles actually had to try it a few times after flashing old guard sds. great day of inspired efforts. ugly duckling that needs more cleaning. again, great crux move, though."

"first go after three years of obsessing... BEHOLD the power of a great day with good friends. got to see footage of the first half at end of life flash at top out due to pump, dirt, and pine needle surprise."

More to come...